SHOULD YOU SELL OR REFURBISH YOUR LAND ROVER?

So what do you have now?

Let’s face it – you have spent a fortune on the vehicle you currently drive but the time will come when some serious refurbishment is due OR this vehicle has to be replaced

Consider that the cost of a replacement vehicle, registration, transfer costs and, in particular financing the purchase may be significantly greater than the cost of refurbishment. It all comes down to what the vehicle is worth to you and what is the overall condition. While there is little point in spending thousands on something that will never hold its value, if the vehicle is a rare model and/or is in generally good condition a refurbishment can easily be justified. This is especially true if the work and cost can be spread over months or even years.

Some jobs are more cost-effective than others

Bodywork options are limitless, ranging from wet-sanding and buffing the existing finish through to a complete new paint job.
Plastic trims can be given a serious lift in appearance by applying water-transfer (hydrographic) printing. The process requires sanding, priming, applying a film of your choice, and clear-coating. The results are like magic (This author had all interior trims of a P38 re-finished in burl walnut adding thousands to the eventual sale price of the vehicle).
Headlining, carpets etc can be replaced, Seats can be changed or re-trimmed. Suspension and steering can be repaired or upgraded, sound systems upgraded and so on

Engine work is a more serious matter

Rebuilding an early diesel engine is going to cost far more than an old vehicle is worth but maybe (just maybe) it may be feasible to change the engine if something compatible is available as a donor unit
If the cost of running your petrol V8 exceeds that of a politician claiming entitlements, changing a 3.5 unit for a 3.9 or even a 4.6 may be worthwhile, but not cheap. A reputable specialist Land Rover shop (not a dealer) will occasionally get an known engine from a vehicle they have serviced for years. It is a classic case of the “devil you know” versus something you buy without any real knowledge of the history. Though an engine swap is not cheap, it will be worthwhile if the rest of the vehicle is a trusted item.

Aesthetics & technology

Probably the worst reason for changing vehicles is that yours is no longer “cool” compared to the later vehicles driven by your peers. It lacks the latest styling, ultra low profile tyres on wheels that would struggle getting into the Coles car park, let alone into the mountains. The other consideration is the ongoing march of technology into every vehicle. A 10-15 year old car is generally easier to fix than a later model.

Some simple upgrades
Leather electric seats
Two-tone paint
Long range fuel tank
New light lenses
Side-steps
Light Bar

Do this first

Take the emotion out of the decision as much as possible. Do your homework by checking prices being paid for vehicles like the one you already own. You may be pleasantly surprised at how much yours is worth if it is in top condition.
Then – and this is the most important advice of all, GET A “PRE-PURCHASE” INSPECTION on your current vehicle. A specialist workshop will give you an honest appraisal of its condition and the approximate cost of any repair work.
Then, if you are really going to replace the vehicle, ALSO get a pre-purchase check on the new one. See the separate article on the website www.graemecooper.com.au explaining how that works.

Conclusions

It certainly is a dilemma and ultimately, it will be a lifestyle decision as much as a financial one. Only you can decide what the vehicle is actually worth to you, regardless of the street value.

Always get a pre-purchase check

When considering the purchase of a second-hand Land Rover (or any other vehicle for that matter) the value of a pre-purchase check cannot be overstated. Do NOT get this done by a mate, or the local friendly service station. Go to a Land Rover expert shop and pay the money. The cost might seem like a lot, but it is nothing compared to the potential cost if you buy something with problems you do not discover until afterwards.  However, be warned that even the best of specialists cannot diagnose every problem, even if potentially major.

Be sure to drive the vehicle in as wide a range of conditions as possible just to satisfy yourself that the vehicle is not obviously defective – things like serious steering shakes, suspension, brakes and water in the footwells. Check the bottom of the door frames and any other readily accessible areas to detect rust. That will be about as far as you can go yourself without applying tools. If the vehicle passes these simple tests, insist on taking it to a specialist for a more complete check. If the seller refuses, walk away.

The value of being suspicious

It is better to be difficult to please, than to be destitute. Assume the worst then whatever actually happens will be a pleasant surprise:

  • Serious RUST is the number one reason to reject a vehicle. The alloy bodies on Land Rovers are commonly fixed to steel frames and it the latter that rust – sometimes beyond easy repair. A vehicle that has been driven on sand can be an absolute rust bucket and will literally be un-roadworthy. Door frames, sills and the floor are most common areas of serious rust.
  • When test-driving the vehicle, consider that ANY and every noise, vibration or misfire is worth serious attention.
  • Vibration or wandering steering could be tyre damage, a bearing, worn bushes or a cracked universal joint.
  • Blowing smoke is not a good idea. If it is black, the injectors need work, or replacement. If blue, a new set of rings and bearings can cost thousands
  • Overheating can mean many things, from a viscous coupling on the fan, a blocked radiator, defective thermostat or a blown head gasket (plus several other causes). However, some overheating problems may not be detected until the vehicle is pushed hard, like steep uphill climbs –something a pre-purchase check may not reveal. This is especially true of early diesel engines that take a long time to get to normal operating temperature. Be sure to test it yourself under these conditions.
  • Heater hoses that are hardening, or coolant hoses softening should be considered minor but necessary repair jobs
  • Loss of coolant means trouble. It can only go two places – onto the ground via a busted hose, leaking radiator, worn water pump etc OR through the engine. The latter is by far the more expensive fix, usually involving head and/or valley gaskets.
  • Water on the floor of the car may be rainwater coming through a sunroof or window but more likely, a blown heater hose or heater core. The parts to fix these problems are cheap, but the labour time to fix them is frightening
  • Cutting out at traffic lights could mean several things, mostly expensive to fix. The modern vehicle is highly complex and repairs can be very costly.
  • If the vehicle has air suspension, don’t believe it is just a leaking air-spring. It could be, but it might also be the valve block, compressor and/or EAS computer.
  • Braking must be smooth and efficient. Pulling one way might be a worn pad, but it might also be a leaking hub seal or ball joint. If there are nasty noises, assume that the disks (rotators) need replacing or maybe a calliper is broken.
  • If the air conditioning doesn’t work, it is not as simple as topping up the gas. There has to be a reason. With luck it will be a loose junction or worn O-ring, but it could be the compressor and if it is an old system, it will need a complete overhaul and new parts..

Emotion versus science

Be suspicious of massive suspension lifts, ultra wide tyres, roof-bars with a zillion driving lights and so on.  These may just be urban-cowboy enhancements, but it might also mean a hard life. That is not a reason to reject the vehicle if it has been well maintained, but once again, assume the worst.

Of course, you will want to customise your new vehicle. However, be careful of spending money on upgrades until ALL of the essentials have been done. Never kid yourself that the purchase price will cover everything that is needed. If you get the vehicle at a reasonable price, it is prudent to spend a bit more money with a professional Land Rover specialist to ensure it is safe and totally roadworthy.

Genuine vs aftermarket parts

“Genuine” parts are inevitably more costly than aftermarket ones, even if they appear to be identical. Legal liability is the absolute fundamental issue underscoring parts selection. In the event of a component failure, the results may vary from minor annoyance to life threatening peril.
Trivial versus non-trivial components
Only a professional workshop has the knowledge and experience to decide which components meet this fundamental criterion. They will also know when an after-market part is actually better than the original and is non-critical for safety and operational reasons. In some cases, the after-market part may be better designed and more robust than the OEM version. After all, technology improves and difficult-to-fit parts may be redesigned for easier installation Therefore, the legal liability aspects may not apply to some components, but it is the experience of the specialist that is critical. Sourcing your own parts then expecting the workshop to fit them is absurd. No professional shop is going to take the risk
It is also worth considering that every vehicle is built to a price and market niche. The engineers and accountants will inevitably have different views not only on the level of inclusions, but also on the cost of each and every component. The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) may source parts for virtually anywhere but they have the responsibility of testing, ensuring compatibility with other vehicle components and above all, the effect on vehicle warranty.
Some examples
For critical systems, engine, drive train and brakes are just some of the vehicle components where OEM parts are essential, not the least for the warranty and legal liability issues described above. It does not matter where the OEM sourced the part, it complies with manufacturer specifications and warranty.
Conversely, suppliers like Maxidrive, Bilstein, Hella, IPF, Haltech and others provide components that are tried and tested, with years of satisfactory service. Their products often out-perform the OEM versions because they are engineered for performance, not just price.
Best advice
The law makes independent workshops accountable, but accepting substitute parts from any unqualified supplier is seriously bad policy. Specifically, the Graeme Cooper team includes qualified experts who know exactly what best suits the circumstances.

Tyre inner tubes

Virtually all tyres are now fitted without inner tubes but this does not mean they should be considered obsolete. Also, unless you have owned the vehicle for a considerable time, it is entirely possible that a previous owner had one or more tyres fitted with tubes to overcome the problem of a sightly damaged rim or a cracked tyre wall and so on.

In an extreme case where you are forced to effect a repair yourself, a tube might be your lifeline. This is not as silly as it might sound. It will not be the first time that TWO punctures occur on a bad stretch of country gravel road when you only have ONE spare. In country like that, it is wise to be prepared for the worst and just having repair plugs may not be enough.

Even if you are not that far from a town when a problem occurs, the local tyre dealer may not carry your brand or size of tyre, so unless the damage is beyond any repair, having an inner tube handy might save you having to purchase a different brand of tyre just to keep you mobile.  Constant 4WD vehicles must NOT have different sized tyres so you may be forced to change all four – an expensive fix when there may be a cheaper solution. A patch and an inner tube will probably get you home, or at least to a dealer who can match the other tyres already on the vehicle.

A final note about valves. It is now standard to use those round plastic covers over the valve stem and they do NOT have the tool requires to remove and replace a valve. Most auto-accessory shops sell valve tools or you may be able to buy or scrounge one from a friendly tyre dealer to carry in your tool kit. Like many tools, you may never need to use it, but if you do, virtually no other tool will do the job!

Classic and P38 wheel nut covers

If you have ever had to change a road wheel on a Classic or P38 with the chrome/stainless covers over the wheel nuts, you will appreciate what a nuisance they can be.  Removed more than a couple of time, they distort so that the socket no longer fits OR the covers will spin without turning the nut underneath.

It may not be the perfect answer but removing the covers and leaving the plain steel nuts bare.fixes the problem permanently

Although the covers distort they are tough so if they are still on the vehicle it will take a cold chisel and hammer to remove them without damaging the steel nut underneath. The job will be easier if the entire nut and cover can be removed, placed into a vice so the cover can be cut away with an ultra-thin angle grinder disk. The trick is to cut downwards along the line of each nut face to avoid damaging the nut itself. Then pull off the cover using pliers – NOT fingers.

The appearance of the plain nuts is obviously not as good as those with covers, but if this is a concern, prime and paint them. Good quality chrome-looking paint is available in aerosol cans from any auto store.

Unless you remove the covers on ALL wheel nuts, you will need to carry two different sockets – a lot better than not being able to change a wheel after a puncture.

AVOIDING TRAILER WOES

Many drivers refuse to tow trailers and in truth, they can be accidents no longer waiting for a place to happen. However, many potential problems can be avoided by regular inspection and maintenance. Here are some suggestions:

1. Left side wheel nuts. Think about it – right hand threads on the RIGHT SIDE of the trailer will try to tighten themselves as the wheel rotates. BUT the right hand threads on the LEFT SIDE wheel nuts are trying to undo themselves. Check them for tightness BEFORE setting out to avoid losing the wheel when the nuts spin off. Don’t laugh – this happens frequently

2. Don’t expect the ball of the coupling to stay tight – vibration may cause the nut to loosen even if fitted with a spring washer, resulting in it literally falling off the tongue. Remove the ball joint, drill a 4 mm hole right through the shaft below where the nut will sit when tight. Replace it and insert a heavy split pin through the hole you drilled.

3. Though hard to believe, the spring pin securing the towbar tongue to the frame has been know to fall out, Then it is only a matter of time before the entire tongue works its way out of the frame. Because the safety chain is usually shackled to the tongue and not the actual vehicle, the trailer will fall off along with the tongue. On a highway this could result in serious accident to a following vehicle. The solution is to replace the spring pin with a bolt and nylock nut OR replace the entire pin with a 1/2″ high tensile bolt and nylock nut. Do NOT use plain nuts or they will work loose too.

4 Driving techniques should be practiced BEFORE setting out onto the public roads. This especially means learning how to back and turn safely without hitting another vehicle OR jack-knifing the trailer into your vehicle. If rear vision is poor, screw or bond a length of brightly coloured metal or plastic so these sit proud of the extreme front edges of the trailer and can be seen easily in your side mirrors

Finally, check your wiring before setting out. It is easier to repair a broken wire at home than do it on the roadside – especially if the Fuzz have stopped you for not having working lights

LAND ROVER traction control

Love to know which idiot at LR or their ad agency decided to post this picture as the example of traction control on a new Disco.

Did they not notice the cable attaching the vehicle to the dozer (or whatever) parked at the top of the hill?

This is either misleading advertising or someone’s idea of a bad joke. Don’t think it will do much to improve sales

AUTO AIR CONDITIONING REPAIRS

The time will come, regardless of the age of the vehicle that the air-conditioning is no longer as cold as you would like it – or as cold as it used to be. To fix this, you may be looking at any cost between a few hundred dollars to many thousands. This is where some background knowledge and good advice can save a great deal of money as well as get the result you want.

The first consideration is the electrics, meaning does the compressor turn on when the controls are switched on? Is air coming from the vents, even if it is not as cold as you want?  You should be able to hear the clutch of the compressor engage and feel air at the vents. Assuming you can, this will not be the cause of the problem.

Far more likely is a leak, or more than one leak in a hose or a seal. They operate under high pressure and heat so deterioration over time is inevitable. A repairer will put dye into the system and under UV light will determine where the leak occurs. If a compressor seal is defective, it can be repaired but it may be far less costly to obtain a good used replacement from a compatible wreck. “Compatible” is the key here because not all compressors will suit your vehicle. However, perhaps the end section can be taken from yours and fitted to the replacement , overcoming the greater cost of pulling yours apart, replacing seals and probably bearings too. Contact Craig at Graeme Cooper Automotive – he may have or can get a good used unit.

A new dryer is essential. Also, it will not be worth attempting to repair defective hoses. Although new ones and fittings custom made to suit your vehicle are fairly expensive, it is the only way to repair a system effectively. A decision will have to be made whether to replace ALL hoses including the ones under the dashboard or just those within the engine bay (the ones copping the heat from the engine). Removing the dash will add several hours of labour and it is possible the leaks may be in the easier -to-access sections. It will be a judgement call.

Graeme Cooper Automotive are experts in diagnosis and repair and can save many hours of frustration and probably cost too.

Craig to the rescue!

Craig Flood is the Parts Manager at Graeme Cooper Automotive. Some say he can jump over small buildings without a run up. Certainly he is one of the most helpful parts specialists I have ever met

One recent example was a Range Rover broken down in the northern Territory and nowhere in the area was there a supplier with the bits needed to get it going. One call to Craig and all was resolved with delivery to the owner within 48 hours

Now that is service!.

SUNROOF RATTLES

There are several causes for rattles in the sunroof- regardless of model. The simple place to start is a check for loose screws. Try this:

Open the sliding roof all the way back

Stand on a stool (etc) so you can reach the roof components from the outside without damaging the car’s paint.

Do not undo anything you don’t have to – why make the job harder?

Try shaking/lifting all the various parts you can see. It will not take much to find the one(s) causing most of the rattling. The most likely is the wind baffle at the front. Chances are one side is tight and the other is loose and juddering. Using a torx driver. tighten any loose screws. The main offender is likely to be the one under a slot at the side of the baffle near the front.

Carefully remove this screw – use a magnet and/or a pair of long nose pliers because it will only come out through the side of the assembly – not through the top slot.

Put one or two small O-rings ONTO the screw AND one UNDER the screw. Carefully align the screw with the hole and tighten it. Now check the baffle again – it should be firmly in place without back and forth movement.

The next likely source of rattle is the sliding cover- more on this later