Craig to the rescue!

Craig Flood is the Parts Manager at Graeme Cooper Automotive. Some say he can jump over small buildings without a run up. Certainly he is one of the most helpful parts specialists I have ever met

One recent example was a Range Rover broken down in the northern Territory and nowhere in the area was there a supplier with the bits needed to get it going. One call to Craig and all was resolved with delivery to the owner within 48 hours

Now that is service!.

SUNROOF RATTLES

There are several causes for rattles in the sunroof- regardless of model. The simple place to start is a check for loose screws. Try this:

Open the sliding roof all the way back

Stand on a stool (etc) so you can reach the roof components from the outside without damaging the car’s paint.

Do not undo anything you don’t have to – why make the job harder?

Try shaking/lifting all the various parts you can see. It will not take much to find the one(s) causing most of the rattling. The most likely is the wind baffle at the front. Chances are one side is tight and the other is loose and juddering. Using a torx driver. tighten any loose screws. The main offender is likely to be the one under a slot at the side of the baffle near the front.

Carefully remove this screw – use a magnet and/or a pair of long nose pliers because it will only come out through the side of the assembly – not through the top slot.

Put one or two small O-rings ONTO the screw AND one UNDER the screw. Carefully align the screw with the hole and tighten it. Now check the baffle again – it should be firmly in place without back and forth movement.

The next likely source of rattle is the sliding cover- more on this later

The dreaded electric seat switch

Having recently added a 1993 Vogue SE to my collection, I started to sort out the usual LUCAS mess, beginning with the driver’s seat adjustments (passenger side was OK). Typically, the controls moved the mirrors but not the seat and trying to get a 6’3″ body into the space occupied by the last owner was a challenge – though not as big a challenge as fixing the problem.

Step 1 – remove two screws from the metal cover over the motors and run a jumper wire from the battery direct to the seat motor- just reverse the polarity to change the direction of movement. Now at least the leg room and rake make driving feasible.

Step 2. Undo the NEGATIVE connector on the main battery – this is not essential but it may help you not to fry anything you touch inadvertently.

GENTLY pry off the two levers, then the top plate from the switch box on the side of the seat. If it has one, remove the rubber gasket. Undo the two Philips head screws securing the switch pack to the housing. GENTLY prise out the pack and unplug it from the loom.

Take the pack to a CLEAN area and place it onto a towel or other surface where the contents will not be lost for ever, Turn over the unit and remove the single Philips head screw from the underside. Then take Valium or strong drink to fortify yourself against the inevitable moment when most of the ball bearings and springs decide to remove themselves from their dedicated location.  GENTLY prise off the cover – Now you know why you are working on the towel. 

Take a very good look at where everything (is supposed to) fit and make sketches if necessary. Carefully remove all of the posts and their brass pins, also all brass contact plates, springs and ball bearings. Clean everything with electrical cleaning fluid and rub the brass strips with FINE sandpaper until everything is shiny.

Replace all strips into their little sockets- keep them clean – NO grease yet.  Replace each of the brass pins and GENTLY replace each post into its socket,  Do NOT damage the plastic housings,  It is very obvious where each one goes (you DID make a sketch didn’t you?). Then hold each ball bearing with forceps (borrow your partner’s eyebrow tweezers if necessary) and dunk each one into a tub of Vaseline until it is liberally covered and sticky, One hole at a time, drop in ONE ball bearing, followed by one spring. (That way you know which holes have the bottom ball bearings refitted).

Now for the tricky bit! One ball bearing at a time, dunk each into the Vaseline and sit it on top of a spring – the gunk will keep it in place – you hope.

GENTLY align the slots in the cover plate with the control posts and lower it until it snaps into place. Hold it down and give it a little shake – you should NOT hear any balls rattling around,  If you do, remove the cover and try re-seating the balls and/or springs again.. Do not replace the bottom screw until you are sure you have got is all right. If necessary, take more Vallium and/or strong drink and persist.

Finally, replace the switch pack into the seat housing, replace the main battery lead, start the vehicle and try the seat switches. If the seat now adjusts correctly, take more strong drink because you have (probably) fixed the problem. If only the mirrors move but not the seat, the problem is in the seat ECU and fixing that will be the subject of a different post.

 Be comforted by the knowledge that this first I did this it took me half a day – now I can do the entire job in less than an hour. However, please do not be surprised if the “fix” lasts only a matter of days or weeks before the old “moving mirror” situation occurs again.

In a separate article, I’ll explain how to bypass the switches completely by making and installing a DIY solution (not one a Land Rover specialist will attempt).

DIY petrol engine repairs

Ever tried rebuilding a land Rover petrol engine – say the 3.5 or 3.9 version? Yes it can be done by anyone reasonably handy but there are many tricks and traps in the process. Here is an excerpt from the full article that appears on the Graeme Cooper website – just one of many articles at http://www.graemecooper.com.au/articles.htm

If you think you can save money by rebuilding your own engine – good luck! Unless you have a) done this before and/or have fairly extensive mechanical experience b) comprehensive variety of workshop tools, c) a workshop manual and d) heaps of patience, you will soon come to realise that what seems like too much money to pay a professional workshop is actually the cheapest and most efficient solution.

One major reason the professional cost seems high is that the work is warranted, meaning if the job is botched, it will be redone at the shop’s expense. Second hand or after-market parts will also not be used unless they are from a known and proven source.  Also, even existing components will be inspected by someone who knows what to look for and anything suspect will be replaced or repaired. Here are some examples:

  • Cylinder heads may be warped or have gone soft from heat over a long period. Unless they are tested and if necessary straightened at a cost of up to $1500 a pair, they are effectively worthless.
  • Stripped threads will prevent bolts being refitted to the specified torque, so coolant, oil and/or compression leakage is inevitable. The professional shop may be able to fit helicoils or re-tap the threads – not something most home mechanics can do.
  • Reuse of gaskets is false economy – replacements may add a few hundred dollars to the price of the job but this is unavoidable for a successful result

The same applies to many of the hoses, especially those that are hard to access

RANGE ROVER 04 IGNITION KEY

The owner could not remove the key from the ignition of a 2004 Vogue.

The advice from Ward – Workshop manager at GCA was as follows

1. There is an interlock system where the “lock” affects several components within the vehicle
2. Ensure “park” is engaged. If not, that alone would prevent key removal.
3. Do NOT attempt to remove the mechanism – that may cause serious problems. Take it to a specialist

WARRANTY WORRIES? Come to the experts

Not only because it within the new vehicle “rules” but due to practical experience, our service of your Land Rover has NO adverse effect on warranty. In fact, we guarantee the results.

The management and mechanics at Graeme Cooper Automotive arguably have greater hands-on experience with Land Rover Discovery, Range Rover, Defender, Freelander and Evoke models than most other service shops. Recently, we have serviced the latest Range Rover Sport and LM models, but also numerous Evokes.

We have all of the diagnostic tools and experience needed to find and rectify the problems that often puzzle others – even the dealerships!

Call 02 5880 2689 for more information.

Graeme Cooper Automotive – late model engine work

Until now, only authorised dealers could remove the cylinder heads on a TD V8 due to the need for special tools. GCA now has that facility. Contact Stuart or Ward on 02 9550 2689 for further details

As an update to this blog, here are some pictures of a Range Rover Sport where the body has been removed to provide full access to the engine and transmission.

DON’T DO THIS AT HOME! Or for that matter – smart not to trust your friendly local service centre with a job like this.

body_off2 (466 x 600)body_off1

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