Post questions ans answers to relating to all Defender models here
Have a lot of play in the rear diff.Are they worth fixing or should i just get a reconditioned one?
Where are you located? Not sure about availability of Defender diffs but GCA may have a good used one and can certainly provide a price for repair, though they may need to see the vehicle first. If you are in Sydney, please contact Ward or Craig on 02 9550 2689.
Recently some rust has found its way onto the metal screen/ mesh on my 2006 110 TD5 that covers the airvents below the windscreen. I would like to get rid of the rust and then repaint, but do not see if they are detachable from the body. I assume I will have to access them after removing the interior dash hardware, but would it be a waist of time as the metal screens would not be removable (ie. welded on)?
If they are, any recommendations on going about this project would be greatly appreciated!
Ward has responded as follows:
Grilles are welded in place so he has 2 options. Either remove outer flap and interior dash as required to clean @ treat affected area before repainting OR cut section out leaving ridge around outside to attach replacement aluminium grille section available from auto accessory shop.
Unless you are a purist, the second option sounds easier
Just a question for the combined experience out there,
I know keeping our vehicles from rattling is futile but one the sliding, rear windows on my 110 rattles even if the wind blows the wrong way. Are there gaskets/ seals that wear out, or adjustments that can be made to reduce this? Any suggestions, advice, etc would be appreciated.
Some of the felt/trims are available. Also you can get some rubber from clarke Rubber to help with the problem as orginal parts are pricey.
Thanks for the advice. I noticed the felt trim pieces that are in the top-horizontal track of the window. Does replacing these require removinc the frame (I noticed they are rivited in). Also, you mentioned rubber pieces, are there certain pieces/ places that seem to work better, or is it just to wedge into place to absorb the vibration?
Yes to replace any seals in the side window yes you have to remove the side window assembly.
In regards to the other problem ,the most cost effective thing to do is to use BLUTAK which you can get from newsagents,supermarkets etc & wedge them in to take the vibration.
For those of you who may run into this issue someday. A solution that has been effective so far….. I ran a bead of black silicone adhesive down the back sideof the fin, or the inside of “V” shape of the gasket; stiffening the gasket’s fin that pushed against the glass and absorbing the vibration. Hope this helps.
I have a couple of issues which seemed to occur at the same time after a recent visit to the snow. The TC and HDC warning lights now come on just after driving away and after the ABS light goes out i.e. as it should on reaching 8kmh if all is ok. I am not sure what this means. Also, the front windscreen wiper functions on the rhs of the steering column and the stop lights do not work when the engine is running. With the key in the ignition position i.e. warning lights displayed both wipers and stop lights function normally. Very odd … Any comments welcome.
The ABS ,T/C and H/D are all linked on 1 system and almost always come on together when an electrical fault is recognised within the system. Link that with the accessories dropping out at what I assume is the same time and I would suspect a loss of power source which may link the 2. Check fuses, otherwise will require diagnostic effort. The faults may also not be linked ?
My Defender TD5 Extreme is loosing coolant though I don’t see where , the hoses were replaced two weeks ago ,and today as I got to work my temp gauge was near red ,I realy hope the motor isn’t cooked, I waited a couple of hours and managed to add 2 lts of coolant to it,then started it no worries. also checked the oil for cloudiness which there was none. any ideas where I could be loosing the coolant ?
Stuart reckons the most likely cause is a blown head gasket. I presume you have made all the obvious checks, like looking for coolant on the chassis rails, around the overflow tank, at the back of the engine, behind the radiator and on the garage floor? Best get a pressure test done.
Thanks Alan you are right , after many hours pressure testing the only possible source of coolant loss is more than likely the head gasget ,its probably being blown out the exhaust,its booked in for the head to be removed in Jan Cheers And thanks for the informative site. Gerry
I assume you checked the fuel cooler – leaks in it are relatively common
Had my 225 for 2wks now and this morning the coolant warning light came on just after i started her up. It only came on for a min but came on again when i got back in later, i,ve checked level and it,s ok it does,nt overheat overheat and runs fine any ideas?
If the level and temperature are OK, maybe it is just a faulty sensor. What? a faulty sensor on a Land Rover you may well ask! If the coolant level is not dropping, I don’t see any other obvious reason
hi all im new to the site hope someone can help has anyone got an idea what i would pay for a replacement gearbox for my 1998 110 defender 300tdi or a rebuild gotta do my clutch and have a rattle could be through out bearing but thinking worst case scenerio
Stuart tells me you have contacted GCA directly but he has not yet had time to reply. The typical cost for an exchange box is around $2000, plus fitting etc. Stuart will get back to you
We have a 2005 Defender now with 89000km. About a month after we took delivery, we started to get a vibration (?) through the brake pedal at low speed. Eventually (2 and a half years later) after much toing and froing Trivett replaced the ECU and the modulator after having previously replaced the ABS sensors, the entire accelerator componentry and other things. Amazingly the noise is still there.
We’ve kept a log of when it occurs, and there is no constant scenario. The only constants that appear are: the truck is doing less than 15kph; and the clutch is usually involved, whether it be pushing in or letting out. Otherwise it can happen uphill, downhill, stopped at lights with the brake on, stopped at lights without the brake on, taking off from lights, parking etc. When the noise occurs the break pedal will drop. Also the sound level of the noise/vibration changes; sometimes it sounds like the discs have fallen out, it’s that loud.
The noise had previously not occurred off road, but we went out recently for the first time in about a year and it was happenning almost constantly. Whether this indicated that the problem is coming to the fore, I don’t know.
Trivett have tried everything, but Landrover UK haven’t heard of the problem previously. Please tell me we’re not the only ones in the world with this problem.
I have just spoken to Stuart about your problem and he suggests you bring the vehicle in. They will clear all of the fault codes, then read them again immediately the fault reappears. He suspects a wire may be rubbing and that is the only way the clutch and the brake could both be involved. Ward, in particular, has lots of experience with Defenders and may have encountered this previously, but he is not available until January 12, so please call after then. We presume you have changed the disks?
Thanks for your quick response. Not sure if the discs have been changed will check before we visit. Trivett have previously checked all the wiring, but with that much of it anything can be missed. I vaguely remember that Trivett have told us the occurence of the problem doesn’t register a fault code which is why it’s been so hard to identify. Will see you soon.
First time post: I proudly own a MY13 90 Defender and intend to off-road. I’ve had ARB fit a bull-bar and Warn winch but I am unable to source rated snatch recovery points for the front. Now I understand that no Defender will ever need to be recovered but, just in case……
Can anybody advise me or is it simply the case that Defenders don’t get to have any?
I seem to remember that someone was advertising defender recovery points on the Australian Land Rover Owners website forum? Otherwise no I don’t know of any one with a rated recovery point.
Graeme Cooper Automotive
If that fails, why not get a couple of heavy rings welded to the chassis? Might not be strictly the correct solution, but it surely will work and cost very little
I’ve got a 2006 TD5 Defender with a couple of very infrequent issues.
The first is a couple of seconds after starting the car, the engine will nearly stall but then come back and the engine light will come on for a couple of seconds then go out.
The second issue is the engine refuses to turn over. The battery is only a few months old and appears to be providing plenty of crank. The weekend just past I had the nearly stall issue when moving the car a short distance. After 20 minutes I started the car again and this time it actually stalled then refused to start. This was after I had driven it about 100 kms from home without issue. Brought it home on the back of a truck, rolled it off the tray and it started first go.
The car had a new injector (#5), injector harness and gasket fitted last year at a dealership. This issue appeared a week or so after so I took it back but they couldn’t reproduce the problem so not sure for certain if its related. I haven’t had the issues for a few months until the weekend just gone.
Any ideas what it could be? Thanks in advance.
Got word back from GCA – they reckon there are possibly two separate issues – one the starter motor.
In my own experience, try giving the body of the motor (not the solenoid) a few hits with a hammer to dislodge any rust built up inside.
Also check that the small wire going to the spade terminal on the solenoid is tight – they have a bad habit of working loose.
GCA suggest the other problem is injector seals leaking- The dealership should fix this without charge because they were the ones who fitted the harness. Failing that, go to a reputable independent specialist diesel mechanic to get it checked
Hope this helps
Thank you so much for gathering that info I really appreciate it!
Upon re-reading my description of the second issue I actually intended to write that the engine turns over, but it refuses to fire. Would your original advice still apply?
Thanks again for your great help.
OK if the engine turns over, it obviously is not the starter motor causing the problem. As noted by the GCA tech, it is most likely to be injector seals.
I’d start by putting some heavy pressure on the dealership that did the job last time. Start by being nice but if that fails, mention of “consumer affairs” usually does the trick.
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