Post questions and answers to issues involving all Discovery models here.
Hi Guys,I am thinking of installing a pyrometer or egt on my Discovery,97 tdi would like some feedback on cheapest and most reliable thankyou lucky lozza
We have previously only fitted VDO unit single function 52mm round gauge, which is not cheap but has been reliable. There are a few multi-function units on market but have not fitted any.
Hi, my car is a 1994 land rover discovery 1 V8i. I drove it to Gosfod last Sat. The engine speed was at 4000 when the speed was 100 in the morning, but when I came back at night, The engine speed was at 3000 when the speed was 100. Is it a problem?
Was there a discernable change in the engine sound? If not, it sounds like the rev counter playing up, if you are reasonably sure your speed was 100kph both times. I’ll get Ward’s comments on this and get back to you
There was no discernable change in the engine sound, and I’m pretty sure about that, they all lasted for about half an hour on the freeway. But today I drove to airport, it’s about 2500r/min at 80kph, seemed very well. I’m not sure if I need to check it or just leave it to see what would happen.
Thanks a lot.
Likely fault is he had 3rd gear selected.Other than that it could be alternator or more likely tacho head/driver fault.Would need to scope signals etc. to confirm fault.
My 2005 Discovery 3 V6 petrol has little to no rear traction on wet dirt at speeds exceeding 40km. The loose of rear traction causes the vehicle to slide side ways. Any ideas?
Presume your tyres are good, also there are no obvious failures of suspension bushes? I have referred your question to Ward at CGA but he would almost certainly want to see the vehicle before giving a definite answer. Where are you located?
I can think of several potential problems, Have you loked at the articles posted in the GCA website? Especially see the one called “got the shakes” I used to run Michellin tyres, then Desert Duellers with similar problems, finally settled on BFG All Terrains and never had a problem since.
Ward has replied –
Tyre type and associated pressures are the most likely issue. What tyres do you have fitted & what pressures do you run in these conditions?
Can someone please help! We have a 2009 Land Rover Disc which is still under warranty. Ever since we have had it we have this intermittent problem where all the dash lights come on, messages such as HDC system not available, limited gears available and engine system fault appear. Also the car slows down to about 40km and gradually has no power. The car then has to be turned off and on again to work. This may fix it for 10mins or a couple months before it happens again. No one can seem to find the problem. They have put in new soft wear and reset the computer. Any ideas
It will obviously be an electronic `glitch’ of some description through one or another of the vehicle’s systems. It needs to be determined what faults are being logged when this occurs by connection to diagnostic system. Dealership would be doing this when investigating fault but do you have record of logged faults?
Due to the complexity of the electronics each system `talks’ to one another and if there is a fault in only one area such as engine, the transmission or suspension or transfer case or brake or instrument pack etc. do not get an accurate message either and so also go into default mode. For an intermittent occurrence such as this it can be difficult and long winded to accurately diagnose the original cause which can be as simple as a poor harness connection or a faulty sensor . BUT WHERE ?
Patience with your service outlet is necessary. All vehicles with this level of electronics are now being affected by these problems and it is not just limited to Land Rovers.
Landrover says there is nothing wrong, just normal drive train play for a car with 120K. Just change your driving technique, try using “command shift”…. Not the answer I was expecting to say the least.
Symptoms: Fairly solid engagement ( clunk) from 2nd-3rd back to 1st gear after almost stopping ( usually on a hill ) and then accelerating fairly quickly to regain road speed. Loaded trailer seems to increase the issue. It has progressively gotten worse over the 12 months. I also believe the situation is starting to become evident when travelling at highway speed in cruise control and the grade requires the selection of a lower gear. ( not too obvious, but symptomatic )
Help Required: I cannot claim to be an expert, however, I know there must be some long term issue on its way if this is not repaired or resolved. I would appreciate any thoughts your readers have on this issue.
Ward’s response is as follows:
Have little idea what vehicle he has .Probably D3 ? It is likely some wear normal or otherwise in drivetrain. Could also be transmission problem on way. Too vague to give much indication without checking for electronic faults or at least inspecting vehicle.
I suggest you contact GCA on 9550 2689 – not very convenient to Turramurra but my personal experience of Coopers leaves others for dead
Hi – the brake resevoir on my Disco series 3 was empty- I have checked wheel cylinders which are ok. Attempted to bleed from front driver side wheel – very little fluid came out and the level did not go down in the master reservoir. Disconnected the brake line from the master cylinder and pumped brake again – nothing coming out of master ? Is the master cylinder no good or is there air trapped? Do I remove master cylinder – how? Thanks,
You can’t properly bleed series 3 disc without electronic diagnostics
Hi looking for some answers and perhaps a referral to a good mechanic
Have a 2003 Discovery II converted to vapour injected gas. Ran perfect for 6 months, then started knocking in the engine on the left hand side when running on gas. If I run it on petrol it goes away, back to gas some problem. If run up the highway, runs perfect. Been told this is due to temperature and a design fault with the engine, the engine has to be pulled apart on sleeves put on. Can anyone confirm this. Quoted 6k to fix.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have been conned myself by one of these “experts” Here is Ward’s response:
He may be being told a load of crap. If it were a liner problem I would expect it would be equally affected on gas or petrol. It is likely to be a management system fault on gas or standard petrol systems messaging link to gas system. I would not expect the engine to run such largely higher temperatures on gas to provoke a loose liner to only exhibit the fault on that fuel. I would want extreme faith in this diagnosis before carrying out repair as advised.
I have a diso2 and when the car is cold when reverse is engaged it takes a couple of seconds then the car engages reverse with a bit of a jolt. Once the car is warmed up there is no problem. Could this be a serious problem.
Yes I do think it could be something seriously at issue with transmission, not so much the slight delay of engagement but the severity of engagement. Would suggest inspection by professional.
I’m hoping one of you Disco Experts can help me.
It’s a TD5 with airbag suspension.
I replaced the radio in my Dads Disco II this morning and now there is a light on the dash. It’s a picture of the car with an up and down arrow. The book says it’s for the auto leveling suspension.
I’ve checked all the fuses encase I shorted something while I was feeding the wires around, but they are all ok.
I’ve driven the car, and the suspension feels ok, so I’m guessing it’s just something to do with the electrics?
Any clues as to what it could be?
My guess is that you have shorted out one of the wires or the switch but I’ll get Ward’s input on this. Where are you located, because the best solution would be to get the vehicle into Coopers for a fix?
Hello again Mike
Ward’s response is pretty much the same as mine- something touching or pressed that should not have been. He says:
He may have actually pressed the switch to select high ride height without realising it. I have seen it before.
Unfortunately, we do not know anyone in Perth we can recommend. Personally, I would avoid the dealers if you can find a specialist Land Rover shop but first do check your switch position and the wiring behind it
Hi, my 1994 disco has a problem, when I start the engine, sometimes it would go off automatically, it’s happened several times and always at very slow speed (probably within 5km/h). I’m wondering if it’s a serious problem?
Please provide mor information that I can relay to GCA for advice, namely:
Petrol or diesel?
Define “go off” i.e do you mean stop operating and if so, does it shudder or provide other symptoms first?
When was the engine last serviced, especially the fuel filters and air cleaner?
Where are you located?
It’s Petrol one, 1994 V8i.
Before the engine stopped, it felt like no gas (very weak power), but only lasted for less one second, then went off. Of course, there was enough gas inside the tank.
This car was serviced about one month ago. The fuel filters was changed, but I don’t know if the air filter was changed too.
I’m in carlingford.
It could be anything from blocked breather system to air flow meter to ECU to stepper motor fault etc.etc.He will need to have ECU faults read to determine any history faults and further diagnostics as required.Set base tune would be first step.
You really need to get a professional diagnosis
I have had the ABS modulator and NSF sensor replaced on 29/05/08 on my 2002 Disco 2 but the warning lights have come on again recently. It has been suggested that I will now have to replace the NSF hub assembly as well in an attempt to to correct the problem. The dealer has cleared the fault codes and the warning lights Have not come on again yet, but I expect they will. As I have spent $4,500 on the problem already I would like to get a second opinion on this. Am I alone or are there other suffers out there?
Ward got back to me with the following:
First answer is 1)approx. $2100 for items he has noted although this may not rectify excessively low power
Second answer is unfortunately it can be 1 of 20 or more various items.It can be something already done or something new,Yes we can diagnose the fault.
Call Ward at Graeme Cooper Auto 9550 2689 – Princes Highway St Peters and he will book the vehicle in for inspection.
hey there robert we had the same problem with our series 2 my advice is sell it as there is no sure fix dont listen to what anyone tells ya if someone says they will fix it. get a money back guarantee watch them change there mind.
Hi Rob, no you are not the only one with this problem, it is quite common. I had it too and drove around for months with it before I decided to do something about it. After a few discussions with Ward and his assessment of it he replaced the solenoidpack and my problem seems to have gone since (half a year ago) I can’t say if this is the solution for you but seems to ave worked for me. Ask Ward for all the technical details about this operation, he would be able to tell you. good luck
I have a 3.9 Discovery 1 that cranks but does not start and the to make it more difficult it is an intermittent fault, that is some time it starts some times it dosen’t.
Any suggestions? Could it be the security system and if so could it be bypassed with an aftermarket ECU?
Could be the immoblizer. Is the front o/s door lock working?
Does it have fuel pressure? Could be the pump
Also could be an ignition problem.needs diagnosing properly so as to not spend to much time and money on it.
Hoping for some good advice as a newbie to Landrover ownership. About 6 months ago I purchased a 99 Discovery V8 fitted with Landi Renco Sequential Gas Injection for my wife. The vehicle underwent the worst ever vehicle inspection by the NRMA who picked up no problems and stated the vehicle was in a reasonable condition.
After relying on that vehicle inspection, I purchased it and then went about repairing many things including a very obvious brake problem, somehow missed by NRMA.
The car is quite good now, however recently I was driving it and noticed the red light on the temperature gauge was on and the gauge was in the red. I immediately pulled over and in the process, the temp gauge needle ‘collapsed’ to zero reading, the red light remained on. The motor rev’s were a little higher than normal at idle, it then dropped the revs and the temp gauge reset to normal with the light out. I sat and idled for a few minutes and the temp stayed in the norm. I popped the bonnet, the vehicle sounded fine, did not appear to be overly hot. I continued on my journey with no problems.
Since that day, the vehicle has from time to time repeated this progress. Especially at traffic lights idling, I will feel the revs rise, then look down and watch the temp gauge rise into red, the light comes on, the needle will fall to zero, then the whole thing will reset back to normal. The motor still does not appear to be over heating. The ambient temperature has never been over about 12 degrees.
I read somewhere that the temp gauges are controlled by the computer. Has anyone else suffered from this problem and can offer advice?? I am not sure if it is a computer diagnostic problem or if the motor is about to over heat. Any advice would be great. I am keen to bring it into a Landrover expert such as GCA, however I live in Canberra and its not a quick trip. many thanks…
You might start by reading the article on cooling system checks and fixes on the CGA website – see http://www.graemecooper.com.au/images/cooling%20system.pdf
I have forwarded your message to Ward but expect you will have to take the vehicle in to get an accurate diagnoisis
Hi I live in South Africa and I have a LR Disco 2 – 2001 TD5 ES which has recently presented exactly the same condition on two occasions that is explained in this post. Temp gauge goes to zero, red light illuminates and the engine idle speed increases to about 1100 rpm? The first time this ocurred I unplugged and cleaned the harness plug under the tappet cover and the problem disappeared for a few weeks. Yesterday the symtom occurred again. I am now not sure whether the ECU reset when I turned off or whether the oily plug may be the problem?
Sorry – WordPress dumped your message into the “spam” folder which is why it was missed. I’m referring your question to GCA now
The GCA manager says:
Check coolant level and if ok check wiring at ecu for oil.after that diagnosing problem comes into play
Does any one have any clues. I have a disco 2 2002 v8. When I start the car a noise comes from under the car for a short time. Sounds to me like bearings. Does it with car stationary ,in drive or neutral? When I open the drivers door it stops, close the door it starts again?? A mate said it could be compressor for the eas system?? Any ideas?? Cheers Thommo
The clue is that the noise stops when the driver’s door is opened, because this effectively locks the EAS so the pump stops making the noise you are hearing. Ward reckons the pump itself may be getting tired OR there is an internal leak – probably not an air spring or the vehicle would drop when parked overnight. Get a bit of rubber tube to use like a stethoscope and with the engine running and the doors closed, maybe you will hear where the leak occurs. If it is within the compressor, you will need a kit or replacement unit
You can call Ward or Craig and they will sell you the correct parts for you to install, or for some local mechanic to do. This would be a better option than relying on someone not familiar with the vehicle to source parts that may not be the correct ones.
Hope this helps – let us know how you get on.
Hi everyone!! First, let me introduce myself. My name is Nestor, I own a Discovery 200. I am writing from Vigo, in north-western Spain.
To make a long story short, I need a new cylinder head. As 200Tdi heads are difficult to find and mine is not repairable (it is cracked between valves in three cylinders, see pictures here http://picasaweb.google.es/vselbaag2az/AveriaDi…hkey=XlR7bGlT5ug#), I am considering the use of a 300Tdi head.
The problem is that I am not sure it it will fit without modifications. I have read in forums that someone somewhere did the job, but no more details are given. And your site (http://www.graemecooper.com.au/disco_powertrain.htm) states that 300Tdi head will fit both 200Tdi and 300Tdi blocks. Does fitting to a 200Tdi block require any modifications?
Feedback is much appreciated, thanks in advance.
Ward, the GCA workshop manager advises that although the heads are different, the 300 will fit 200 with only minor modification. You have to use 300 injectors ,glow plugs ,change thermostat housing etc. Hope this helps
my ’96 3.9l V8i (129K) has an annoying habit in that, once it has reached operating temp and I turn the engine off and re-start it after a little while, it will fire up on the first try but does not idle and dies, but on the second try idles nice and steady.
The stepper motor was recently replaced, as well, I have replaced all leads, dizzy cap, rotor and new spark plugs.
Any ideas?, thanks!
You may have a blocked throttle body breather system that will require a clean out, or maybe fuel pressure is bleeding down and snuffs out on the first start. If you are in Sydney, give us a call – this is not a huge job
Stuart from GCA tells me that your problem is virtuall impossible to determine without access to the right diagnostic equipment, because it could be any playing up for any one of several reasons. Call Graeme at British Car Components- he will not rip you off
Gday Guys,In Darwin and no good Landy people up here so need some help.
Had car since new got 185k trouble free but lately seems rough at idle done filter etc think idling to low been told can only adjust idling with ECU computer chip..Is this so.
2Got oil leaking from at or near filter behind turbo I think it is gasket between block and housing but as I can only get filter hand tight as cant get tool in there is there a special tool or trick that will keep filter tight so I can see if thats the cause.Thanks and Cheers.
Stuart tells me that the oil filter will leak if the new gasket was installed without first removing the old one. Regarding the other problems, there are many possible causes and yes, you really need to get the vehicle to someone with the right diagnostic equipment so they can check the compression, injector pump output and so on.
Obviously a Land Rover dealer will have this gear, but maybe you prefer to use a trusted mechanic who might like some advice from the GCA team. In this case, please call Stuart on 02 9550 2689 for a more complete run down on what to check
I am looking for some comment or assistance.
I have a 2000 series 2 disco, in the last few months the rear lefthand side sags when the ignition is turned off, this does not happen all the time but is irregular and occurs about 50% of the time.
The airbag does not seem to be leaking, this was tested by wiping it with a sudsy solution and looking for bubbles, none came.
Presumably therefore the fault is somewhere in the rest of the system or in the computer.
I am considering fitting coils to the rear to overcome this problem.
Has anybody experienced this? If so what was the solution you found to work
Thanks in anticipation
Coopers say it will almost certainly be the air bag. The valve assembly is very simple & he is yet to see them leak (actually mine did).
A leak in a bag can be found with suds, but the bag needs to be in the right position to expose the leak. Replacing a bag in the workshop is no big deal.
I suggest you call GCA to talk about the spring conversion if you still want to consider that. I know many have done this, but I personally persisted with some work on the bags, valve block and sensors and am delighted with the far superior ride and without spending anything like the cost of a spring conversion
Hi there, I have a Discovery 97 V8i Automatic, and of late it occasionally stalls when I put it into reverse. Any Ideas ??
Coopers reckon the problem is likely to be one of two things, a restricted tee piece in the engine idle speed / crankcase breather system circuit or a air flow meter problem.
Actually, it could also be as simple as the need for a proper engine tune.
Can anyone tell me how to check if a turbo wastegate is operating properly? My actuator seems very stiff and the shaft that connects to the turbo will not move in any direction when I apply (somewhat carefully) lateral force on the rod with multigrips (engine turned off).
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
They are as stiff as buggery, so if it moves at all its not seized. If it is stuck in the open position there will be a serious loss of performance. If you bring the car in, the job should not be expensive
Hi guys,iv just bought my first discovery,(94 V8).one of my first mods is to fit bigger tyres,i wanted a set of 33,s but have been told,to get them under the guards i will have to do a suspension lift,a body lift and also chop the guards,which i dont really want to do.can any one help me with some info on what the biggest wheels would be that i can put on,with hopefully only doing the suspension lift,id be happy with a set of 32,s(cooper stt) or another tyre of around that size.I was told by pedders that doing a 2 inch lift would be enough.
Please help,iv had so much advice that its become very confussing.
Any tyre over standard will require the rear guard to be cropped as per Range Rover Classic ( it will need to have the same wheel arch profile ) a suspension lift 50 mm over standard will be suitable & the 265 /75 x 16 tyre will fit in. If you are in Sydney, bring it in and we’ll quote for this job
MY Land Rover Discovery II 2002 v* will not start. The local Dealer replaced the crank sensor and the Rover started well for 1 month, now it is doning the same thing turning over all the lights work, everything comes on it just either is not getting fuel or spark??? I ran a simple hand held DIO on the Rover and it gave me the code P1668 which means open curcuit??? Please anyone have advice.
Nash in Florida
I presume you have done all the obvious things, like put a lead from earth to each plug to check for a spark, also disconnect the main fuel line from the pump to ensure there is a fuel flow. Always check the simple things first.
Car that is not working is generally caused by either either a bad starter or dead battery. Check also the radio, headlights, heater fan and wipers. If they are all okay, then probably you have a bad starter
I’m thinking of running my Tdi on Biodiesel rother than the normal diesel. It currently runs on diesel and lpg. Is it safe to try biodiesel and are there any issues I need to be aware of or take into account.
The motor and engine have both been extensively rebuilt within the last year and I don’t want to bugger it up !
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Thanks, I spoke to Coopers and am now running it on biofuel. Works great and is miles cheaper. About the same or even a bit better on economy. Starts first time. I did change the fuel filter after the first tankful of biodiesel as advised.
Happy chappy !
hi i have a td5 and at approx 2250 rpm it has a harmonic vibration no one can tell me the cause ?
Can be for various reasons or combination of any from ACE (active corner enhancement) or A/C pipes
not secured correctly to engine mount faults to engine imbalance or torque converter fault. Sorry if this is imprecise but would need to be diagnosed & isolated to confirm repair required.
This seems most likely to be wheel balance. Any good tyre shop can check it for you
Amazing blog it was helpful for me. Thanks for the post.
Wonderful blog it was helpful for me. Thanks for the post.
Don’t forget that a faster answer might be possible if technical questions are placed in the FORUM of the CGA website
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