Post questions and answers to issues relating to all Range Rover models here.  Please be sute to specify the model type and year

38 thoughts on “RANGE ROVER

  1. Hi guys ,

    You serviced a white 94 classic LSE softdash for me in dec/jan. Much improved and a great trip home to the Derby in the Kimberley (5400 km’s). As you predicted the alternator hiccuped in Alice and was replaced.

    The car has never liked running in the heat but a few weeks ago I parked it outside a hospital in the sun. When I came back it started , a bit lumpy but just wouldn’t pick up revs beyond idle. Turned it off ( big mistake) and a few minutes later it wouldn’t start at all. Cranks well. I’ve checked or replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, in tank pump and the relays for the pump…no joy…all seem to be worked or are now new. My nearest reliable LR service points ( that I know of) are Perth ( 2400 km’s) and Alice ( 2200). I’m prepared to put it on a flat bed to either if I have to BUT :-

    1) is there something more I should check given my limited abilities
    2)do you knowof a relaible technician within a 1500 km’s ( Karratha, Hedland, Katherine ??)

    • First things to check are is it spark or fuel related. Stick spark plug lead on your tongue and have someone crank engine. If you fall backwards you have spark.

      Actually, pull coil lead from centre of distributor cap and hold approx. 10mm away from top of inlet manifold and have someone crank engine to check for spark. Other quick check is with ignition on `reds’, the fuel pump should be able to be heard running for 3 seconds before stopping and if you depress centre pin of schrader valve (like tyre valve) on driver’s side of fuel rail to see if there is pressure.

      Get back to me with results.

      Regards Ward

  2. has anybody experienced a power problem when taco reaches 3500 rpm it starts to nose over and no more power could it be a muffler that is stuffed?
    just asking if anyone has had this problem

    • Yes it could be muffler or catylists restricted. If it is the cats that are deteriorating they generally rattle when cold but not always. It could also be lack of fuel pressure due to pump running slowly or restricted filter. As the filter is part of the pump it would need to be replaced as one item. It could also be one or a combination of engine sensors. To be brief it needs accurate diagnostic work before just spending money on what you heard might be the problem, otherwise you might end up replacing quite a few parts on suspicion without rectifying your actual problem.

      • From the Central Coast, St Peters in Sydney will not be very convenient, but there is a train station only a few hundred metres from GCA, so if feasible, I seriously recommend calling Ward on 9550 2689 and booking the vehicle in. I have dealt with Coopers personally for over 20 years and can vouch fro their honesty – more than can be said for many others


  3. Help?

    My husband and I are having big issues with our 1997 Range Rover, 4.0 which I believe is a gen 2.
    EFI codes indicates injectors 6, 7, 8 are faulty, P1206- P1208. Just had crank angle sensor replaced but the problematic lack of power continues. Either the scanner is innacurate or lying to us.
    There have also been problems with the drivers side door with being locked out also resulting in the need to smash the lock after all else failed .
    The RR runs on both gas and petrol we can switch it over to gas and it does the same thing no accelleration and wont rev up at all even when we put the pedal to the floor.
    Help would be much appreciated.

    • Injector faults will always occur if used on gas as the injectors are shut down. It is also unlikely injectors are the issue if same fault occurs on both fuels.Need to determine what type of gas system is being used.Need to measure A/F ratios under load.Intake or exhaust restriction possible.


      • Thanks Ward
        This issue has been a nightmare. The same fault does occur on both fuels. Undid the catalytic convertors from engine pipes and still the same issue(lack of power). I was wondering if the RR is in safe mode because of the door fault. Would and EFI show this up in scan because so far no indication. Is A/F acceleration function? Still no Power. How would gas system be involved, how would I be able to identify this. Any other thoughts? Thanks Kev

        • We are located in Dandenong South Victoria.
          Diagnostics on this issue has been the biggest stumbling block. Kevin is keen to problem solve it through but is finding it challenging re finding electrical diagrams and specs as well as trying to get to the source of the problem by the process of elimination.
          Even our local Auto Elec says that the issue may relate to other sensors or there are a number of other possibilities all of which come down to trial and error. Any direction will help.
          It has been time consuming but Kevin is hoping that with a bit of help and perserverance he may be able to get to the cause of the problem.
          It would be satisfying have some sense of resolution.

          • Because you are not in Sydney, your best bet would be Graeme Ewing at British Car Components, Stawell Street West Melbourne. I have personally known Graeme for years and can recommend his honesty and expertise. Please give him my regards


  4. The ABS compressor on my 93 RRC won’t stop!

    I have already had the whole unit replaced not long ago and will obviously be taking it back but in the mean time can anyone tell me if this may be a simple fix? I am thinking I may have a faulty ABS ECU as it did this on and off on the previous one? I am currently a long way from a land rover workshop and locals here (Ulladulla) have no idea about this stuff.

    The only way I have been able to stop it was to remove the slow blow 30 amp fuse from under the passenger front seat (or disconnect the battery). I am at least 3 hours from the nearest repair centre and am worried about it running itself into the ground and having brake failure.

    Any advice would be appreciated.


    • ABS pump relay is likely fault although not only possibility.The relay should have been replaced at time when pump was and it could be burnt by old pump failure and now sticking on.It is a specific type of relay although can temporarily be replaced with generic type with similar pin configuration and be replaced with correct unit later.

      Regards Ward.

  5. I was looking at the owners manual of the 1992 RRC and it specified tyre pressures of 28lbf/in2 for the front tyres and 35 lbf/in2 for the rear tyres. The standard tyre size is 205/R16. How critical is this and would anyone know what the reasoning behind this is? Would it have any effect on the viscous coupling/torque converter? My current tyres are 205/80/R16’s. Do I follow the owner’s manual requirements or do I keep all 4 tyres at the same pressure?

    Thanks in advance.

      • Tyre pressures I would normally set at 36psi front & rear for wear and handling reasons.Different pressures front to rear are not a problem though.

  6. Hi, I’m new to the forum, but having just bought a 92 classic, and not knowing too much about them, I thought you guys might be able to answer my questions.
    My new baby has a fairly shot motor and I have a 351 cleveland that used to reside in my old F100, and I was wondering if it would fit in the rangie, and if it is possible (if it fits of course) to mate it to the ZF auto?
    Any help would be much appreciated.

    • Hi Neil

      Welcome to the forum.

      You can fit almost anything into anything if you have enough money and a high level of adventure, but without even consulting the GCA lads, I can tell you that you would be asking for trouble with your proposed solution. You would be putting a heavy iron unit into a vehicle designed for the weight of an alloy block. Also, depending on the torque, it is likely you will rip the Rover transmission out. For a more comprehensive answer, see http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/index.htm#engineswap where the engine swap options are clearly debated.

      If you like the vehicle and all of the other bits are sound, your best bet would be to source a good second hand 3.9 OR have the existing one rebuilt. Obviously, there is little point in spending heaps for a better engine on an unreliable car so why not call Ward at CGA and get the rest of the car checked out. If all looks OK, they will advise on the best solution and they get engines in and mostly know the history if yours is not worth reworking.



      • Thanks for that Alan. I thought that might have been the case, but seeing as I had that motor just sitting around I thought I’d ask. I might try and find a 4.6 to drop in.


        • Hi Neil

          Be very careful if you go the 4.6 route. I love these power plants and the vehicle will fly, but a used 4.6 is probably out of its original vehicle for a good reason. They are prone to slipping cylinder liners and there is a lot of expense to fix them. The correct procedure is to fit new “top hat” liners that will never shift and Coopers often have a block machined and ready to use as an exchange. The all up fitted cost is however in excess of $8k or $9k.

          My current 91 Classic had a 4.6 that had been cooked, so it was replaced with a 4.0. The replacement engine also developed problems and cost me around $4000 for a new camshaft and front end However, now fixed properly, the engine is excellent and performs nearly as well as my former 4.6 HSE. Overall, I think you might be better off getting a good 4.0 where the history is known and perhaps having it stripped and balanced. Whichever way you go, you would be need to be sure the rest of the vehicle warrants such expense.

          Talk to Ward or Stuart about the options



          • Time for a new heart rate monitor and I was wondering if any of you recommend a tri specific model? At this point im leaning towards the Polar 520. Any good or bad feedback is appreciated

  7. My problem is I live in Darwin and yesterday my 93 Vouge decided to sit on the bump stops. The self diagnostics indicator lights flash for the required 30 seconds then remain illuminated. All fuses are intact and I’ve checked the compressor by bypassing the relay. The compressor will not operate by use of the ignition switch and I suspect the ECU has shut down the system. Am I correct with this assumption?
    The dealer can’t look at it until August 8 and no other reputable engineers have the ability to download the ECU.
    Any ideas please as I need the vehicle. We might have great weather but there are other limitations when it comes to service.

    • Hi AJ

      Ward (GCA) called today and suggested a few options:

      You have not mentioned that the EAS is dropping overnight, so this suggests the bags themselves are OK. The fault is therefore most likely in the pump or the valve block and on these Classics, even if the fault is repaired, there is no way to recover the system without access to a LandRover shop where the computer can be reset.

      A possible solution is to get ENZED, Pirtek etc to make up some manual connections to the air springs from which to run lines back to the pump (if it still works) through a direct connection from the battery, a fuse and a switch. If it does not work, place air fill valves from each air spring line somewhere convenient so that you can add air at a Servo.

      The other solution is to replace the EAS system with coils – not as hard as it sounds. See the article on the GCA website.

      When you decide what to do, you can call Ward or Craig and they will sell you the correct parts for you to install, or for some local mechanic to do. This would be a better option than relying on someone not familiar with the vehicle to source parts that may not be the correct ones.

      Hope this helps – let us know how you get on.


  8. being new to the RR game I have purchased an 89 fuel injected RR 190000 on the clock, since purchase i have lost power to the coil (looks like i have purchased some one elses problems) new module put on dizzy to no avail seeking solutions??

    cheers edgy

    • Ward called re your problem and suggests it is just a matter of persistence to find wher the wiring fault occurs.

      The module you have added will not help if there is no power to the coil in the first place. Check all of the visible wiring for a burned of frayed wire and replace any section that is faulty. If that does not fix it, run a jumper wire from the ignition switch direct to the coil. If this works, the problem will be inside the loom. If it does not work, then the switch itself may be the problem and you can check that by running the wire from any other ignition-switched component.

      If you need parts, you can call Ward or Craig and they will sell you the correct parts for you to install, or for some local mechanic to do. This would be a better option than relying on someone not familiar with the vehicle to source parts that may not be the correct ones.

      Hope this helps – let us know how you get on.


  9. I was wondering who may have had a Haltech Interceptor installed into their P38A?

    I want one but I’d like to talk to an owner first.


    • Actually, the HALTEC Interceptor IS a great addition for you because we can write a program for gas and a separate program for petrol giving optimum performance on either fuel.

      The car would be needed for a full day and cost around $1500 for the complete job

  10. Hoping someone could help me here. I have a 93 RRC with air suspension and I am looking at putting 31″ tyres on. Currently I have 225/75 16’s on and was told they were the largest tyres that could be fitted without issue’s (for air suspension). I realise I will more than likely have to trim the guards but was wondering how much suspension lift would be needed so there is no fouling? I don’t really want to do a body lift and have recently got my hands on the EASUnlock suite program and am currently getting a diagnostic cable made up so that I can adjust the suspension height via a laptop. I don’t want to raise it any more than is needed but was wondering exactly/approx? what is the maximum you can go without popping the air bags off their mounts when at full articulation? Would I need to replace the front bags with rear one’s (as they are longer)?
    Any advice would be appreciated.

    • Ward has commented as follows:

      “The shock absorber open length will be his limiting factor and would suggest not to fit longer extension units without substantial driveline and other associated suspension changes”.

      If you are in NSW, it might be worth contacting Ward at Graeme Cooper Automotive for a more detailed discussion.

  11. I want to remove the battery and clean and repaint the battery tray in the engine compartment as it is slightly corroded. Would this cause any damage to the ECU once I unplug the battery? I have a 1992 RRC (no ABS). Is there anything that I need to be aware of prior to doing this?


    • I have done this several times on my 91 model and previous 93 model without problems, other than having to reset the radio code, so make sure you have that code before disconnecting. I have copied Stuart on this to add a comment if there is anything I have overlooked



  12. Has anyone got a diagram – or even just a wire colour table for the electric seats in a P38 HSE please? Despite others mentioning it, this detail is not on the RAVE CD. I scored a couple of HSE seats I want to put into my 91 that currently has bloody uncomfortable manual seats (for someone who is 6’3). The P38 seats came with the sockets, but not the plugs from the wiring loom so it is very difficult to get power in to work out which wire does what. I do not care about the memory function, just the slide and seat height and rake adjustments.

    Any help appreciated


    • The mystery has been solved.

      Each individual motor has wires leading to individual relays under the seat. You take all of the wires from the relays, then join all common colours together and connect as follows: Black goes to earth, green stripe to ignition live, red stripe to battery via a fuse. Everything will then work except the memory


  13. Hi im new and i own a 98 4.6L HSE and having a problem when i push the brakes. Everytime when i apply pressure to my brakes these three lights would flicker and i usually get a firm feel in the brakes on my second pump on the pedals. It brakes fine but feels not too firm on the first as the second time when applying the brakes. Can somebody please enlight me on this problem and what i should repair or change. Im leaning towards the accumulator but somebody told me a new pump but the pump on it looks new. Any help will be great. Thanks.

    • The problem he is experienceing is likely to be the accumulator. With out professional diagnosis, the cheaper part by far is the accumulator, it would be the first thing to try in the diagnostic path.

  14. My son has developed a sever wheel wobble on his rangie if He hits a pot hole so far changed the steering damper, replaced the front wheel bearings has one was full of water all rod ends have been checked ok have removed one shim from both swivels and rechecked with spring balance, shocks appear alright and are not loose. The steering dose seem very light not sure if this is normal. Any help appreciated.

    • The Panhard rod bushes play a big role in keeping the front end wobble free, check them by someone wobbling the steering wheel whilst you look for movement between the bolts & the chassis & axle bracket.
      A Bilstein steering damper has a greater ability to control the wobbles than any others, there are some real nasty quality units available. Best to disconnect it & check there is no air pockets in it.
      If the steering is very light the valves in the box may be cactus, that doesn’t help.

    • Could be one of several things causing this, but all are potentially dangerous. I strongly advise getting the vehicle to a specialist shop to have the bushes, bearings and CV joints checked

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